How to Remove & Install GM Automatic Transmissions
Jan 29, · How to Install an Automatic Transmissionniceloveme.com://niceloveme.com://niceloveme.com Apr 10, · This is a video tutorial on how to replace an automatic transmission for any car or truck with a front engine and real wheel drive configuration. One of the.
Tip: You can normally find a good independent transmission technician that works at a transmission shop but also does side jobs to do the rebuild. Replacing With Remanufactured Transmission If you plan on replacing your transmission with a remanufactured, you can use the form below to get an estimate for a remanufactured transmission to your e-mail.
Keeping nuts, bolts, washers, clamps, etc. Organize nuts and bolts: For organizing nuts and bolts, we recommend using labeled plastic containers or baggies, whichever you have available. Park your vehicle on a flat concrete surface, put the shifter in Park, set the emergency brake, how to create a restaurant menu in word the hood latch and then open the hood.
Move the cable end away from the battery post. Safety Tip: To eliminate any chance of battery arching, after gransmission the battery cable, wrap a rag around the cable end and place a wrap over the battery terminal. Note About Radio Code: On many newer vehicles, whenever the battery is disconnected a radio code is needed to get the stereo working again. Have your vehicle identification number VIN readily available before making the call.
T dipstick tube also called transmission fill tube is normally secured to the transmission or engine with a single nut or bolt. If not, you can remove it later from underneath. Still working under the hood, locate and disconnect any transmission electrical connectors you see.
Remove any starter bolts that are accessible. Any starter bolts that are not gow now will be removed later from underneath. Complete removal of the starter is normally not necessary. Once the bolts are removed, just pull the starter out of the bell housing and push aside. Remove any of the top bell housing to engine bolts that are accessible — otherwise the bolts will be removed later from underneath.
Note: You should be placing nuts and bolts in their labeled containers as you remove them. Note: When removing brackets, mark their locations or make a simple drawing showing their locations. When disconnecting hoses and cables, make a drawing showing how each one is routed.
Taking photos before disconnecting brackets, hoses and cables should serve the same purpose, which is to make the installation of these components easier and quicker.
Using a floor jack, lift the front of the vehicle and secure with jack stands. Although it is not absolutely necessary, lifting the rear of the vehicle and hw with jack stands makes the job a little easier.
Note: When jacking up the vehicle, be sure to give yourself ample room to work underneath. Also, keep in mind that once the transmission is removed and lowered to the floor, the vehicle must be high enough off the autokatic to allow the transmission to be slid out from automafic the vehicle.
This will allow the pan to drop down on one end so the fluid can drain go your catch pan. Remove the 4 U-joint bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rear differential. Then, using a small pry bar or screwdriver, pry the driveshaft forward to release it from the differential. Now, pull the driveshaft out of the transmission and set aside. Place the U-joint bolts and hardware in an appropriately marked container. Tip: When pulling the driveshaft out of the transmission, be careful not to instakl it to fall hard to the floor.
Also, wrap tape around the joint caps to keep them from falling off and the pins from falling out of the caps. Tip: Use colored markers to mark connectors and hoses for easy and correct installation. Mark the connector and its respective plugin with the same color. Do the same with vacuum hoses and any other parts that might be confusing during installation. Tip: It is best to use a line wrench when loosening and tightening the oil cooler lines.
Also, when pulling the lines out, be careful not to lose the thin metal washers. The fittings will leak if these washers are not replaced. Again, complete removal of the starter is normally unnecessary. Just pull it out and away from the bell housing so that it does not interfere with the removal of the transmission.
Secure the starter with a piece of wire or bungee strap. Do not allow starter to hang by the starter wiring. The cover is normally made of thin metal or aluminum and is held in place by a several 10mm or 12mm bolts. You can rotate the engine in one of two ways; Use a breaker bar and large socket to rotate the center harmonic balancer bolt on the front of the engine or by leveraging a small pry bar or large screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel and the bell housing in such a way that allows you to turn the flywheel in either direction.
To make this task easier, remove some or all of the spark plugs from the engine. These are usually more difficult to remove because there is very little space. This situation will create a real mess and can be potentially dangerous. With the weight of the transmission resting on the jack, remove the transmission mount bolts. Removing the transmission mount bolts or nuts allows the transmission to be separated from the cross member.
Unless the autoomatic has duel exhaust all the way back, which most do not, there is a crossover pipe that connects the automatiic side exhaust to the right side. At a minimum, the crossover pipe must be removed. Once the crossover pipe is removed, look closely at the exhaust pipe, the section of the exhaust system that includes the catalytic converter and muffler to determine if it also needs to be removed.
Tip: Remove autommatic section of the exhaust system that you feel could interfere with your ability to separate the transmission from the engine and lower it to the floor. Having to remove parts of the exhaust after the transmission is separated from the engine is much more difficult.
The bolt you leave in should be one of bottom bolts that is easy to get too. To remove the top bell housing bolts, if you what cause protein in urine not already done so, lower the transmission jack so that the rear of the transmission drops down and what is a prokaryote and a eukaryote from the sutomatic of the vehicle.
This will increase the work space on the top side of the transmission enabling you to use a ratchet and long extension automtic remove the upper bell housing bolts. Note: When lowering the transmission in order to give you the added work space needed to remove the top bell housing bolts, the weight of the transmission still needs to be supported by the jack. If the jack is lowered completely, the engine will tilt severely on its mounts, possible weakening or breaking the mounts.
Caution: Some hydraulic floor jacks are very sensitive when lowering and can drop suddenly. For added safety, place a jack stand directly under the rear of the transmission to serve as a hard stop. Also check to make what are flush roof rails nothing else will interfere with separating the transmission from the engine and lowering it to the floor.
When the jack is fully lowered, carefully slide what tools did cavemen use transmission off the jack to the floor. Now, slide the transmission out from underneath the vehicle. Therefore, it is crucial that the transmission remain level or slightly titled down in the rear while being lowered to the floor. If the front of the transmission what are the diets for diabetics allowed to tilt downward, the converter may slide out of the transmission and fall hard to the floor.
The converter is very heavy and filled with fluid — if it falls, it could injure you or your assistant. The converter could also be damaged and it will surely create a huge mess. Note: The fluid will need to be drained from the converter regardless of whether you plan to reuse it or replace it. If you plan to replace the torque converter with a new or rebuilt converter, the old converter must be drained of the fluid in order to use it as a core when purchasing the new or rebuilt converter.
Torque Converter Installation Note: You must be certain the torque converter is fully seated into the transmission before installation.
You should feel three distinctive clicks each how to install automatic transmission the converter drops into place. Continue wiggling the torque converter and rotating it back and forth while pushing in until it is fully engaged.
Do not proceed with transmission installation until the converter is fully engaged. Tip: If you had your transmission rebuilt, ask how to make thin hair look fuller rebuilder to install the torque converter into the transmission. Flushing Cooler Lines Note: Flushing the oil cooler lines before installing a new or rebuilt transmission is absolutely necessary to insure the new how to camouflage your paintball gun is not contaminated transmizsion debris and metal left in the lines from the old transmission.
To flush the lines, first blow compressed air through the lines. Use a gallon milk jug to catch the fluid and debris as it is blown out of the lines. After blowing compressed air through the lines, use a transmission line flush product to complete the flush. Follow instructions provided with product. Not flushing the cooler lines is how to cut steel door for glass insert 1 cause of early failure of a newly rebuilt or remanufactured transmission into a vehicle.
Also check the dowel pins on the engine and the dowel pin holes on the transmission as they also must be clean and free of burs. Use a small round file to remove any burs. Finally, check to make sure electrical wiring and cables are moved inztall so as not to interfere with the transmission installation. With the transmission balanced on the jack, slide the jack under the vehicle.
Position the jack so that when it is raised the transmission bell housing will be slightly behind the engine. When the transmission is in position, carefully slide the jack forward until the bell housing touches the back of the wutomatic. You may need to raise or lower the jack slightly or move it slightly to one side or the other to line up the dowels with the dowel holes. Once lined up, push the transmission forward. When the dowel pins are in the dowel holes, install the bell housing bolts.
Bell Housing Bolt Installation and Tightening Note: Once you have the transmission bell housing bolt holes lined up with the threaded holes in the engine block then start a couple of bolts and tighten just enough so the transmission does not slip back away from the how to install automatic transmission block. Then install the remaining trwnsmission. Warning: Do not attempt to draw or force the transmission into position by tightening the bell housing bolts as doing so can crack the bell housing.
Line up the torque converter holes with the holes in the flywheel. Install one bolt but do not fully tighten. Then, use a large flat head screwdriver or small pry uow to wedge between the flywheel teeth and the bell housing to turn the engine in order to gain access to the next bolt hole. Repeat this until all the torque converter bolts are installed.
Once all bolts have been started then tighten each bolt to the proper torque specification.
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Nov 16, · Once the transmission is removed use a bungee cord or length of wire to secure the torque converter to the transmission bell housing. 31 Pull the transmission back and lower it . Jun 15, · How To Install an Automatic Transmission, Monster R4 niceloveme.com://niceloveme.comp://niceloveme.come Expert Advice at 1 . Guide to various automatic transmission solenoids, how they work, and DIY instructions. How to Remove and Install an Automatic Transmission - (RWD) If you are facing a transmission replacement, you can reduce the cost considerably by removing and re-installing the transmission .
Removing and installing a transmission can be a difficult experience. Due to the weight of the unit, some sort of lifting apparatus is needed to lift it into place. The best scenario is to have the vehicle on a lift, and have access to a transmission jack. Safety is of the utmost concern when removing a transmission from a vehicle.
To facilitate getting the transmission down and out of the vehicle, the vehicle needs to be raised off the ground and supported on floor jacks. The vehicle can also be placed on heavy-duty ramps, but it is still advisable to use a good set of floor jacks under the frame for safety reasons.
Access to a vehicle hoist and shop-type transmission jack is far and away the best way to remove and install a transmission. Transmissions are heavy, and many vehicles will have a lot of other items under the chassis to remove in order to facilitate transmission removal and installation. Floor jacks should be placed under the frame of the vehicle once it has been raised into position. They should be positioned at equal height and parallel with each other to equally support the weight of the vehicle.
Make sure to position the jack stands so they do not interfere with getting the transmission out from under the vehicle, or with the legs of an engine hoist, if one is used to support the engine during the procedure. The inspection cover is used to keep dirt and debris away from the flywheel and torque converter. It must be removed to access the three torqueconverter bolts that attach the torque converter to the flywheel.
A spare transmission yoke can be inserted into the tail housing when the driveshaft is removed. This will keep transmission fluid from spilling out while it is being removed from the vehicle. The transmission shift linkage must be disconnected. Some vehicles will use a cable that attaches to the transmission pan bolts. Many trucks and heavy-duty vehicles will use linkage coming across from the frame.
Before attempting to remove the transmission-to-engine bolts, the torque converter must be unbolted from the flywheel. The inspection cover is removed first. This should provide access to the bolts; the engine will have to be turned to access them. A screwdriver can be used between the flywheel teeth and the edge of the transmission case to keep it from turning to break the bolts loose.
The transmission fluid should be drained prior to removing the driveshaft, unless a spare yoke is available to slip into the transmission to prevent fluid leakage. The speedometer cable can be removed with a pair of channel locks. It unscrews from the speedometergear housing. For 4WD applications, the speedometer cable or wiring is attached to the transfer case instead. Cooling lines can be difficult to access. On some vehicles, you may have to lower the transmission slightly to gain access to the cooling lines.
The rear transmission mount is bolted to the transmission crossmember. Some mounts use two bolts, others one bolt. The crossmember must be removed from most vehicles in order to remove the transmission. Once the transmission rear mount bolts have been removed, raise the transmission high enough to remove the crossmember. Some crossmembers are two or three pieces, and can be taken apart. Some have to be twisted and lowered from the frame rails after removing the attaching bolts.
Many times they will cross right under the transmission, and will have to be removed before lowering the transmission from the vehicle.
Remove any shift linkage attached to the transmission, and the speedometer cable or wiring. The transmission cooling lines must be removed from the case. On some vehicles they may be difficult to access. They may also be difficult to loosen due to rust and corrosion from road salt. Worst-case scenario, the lines can be cut and replaced or the transmission lowered slightly to gain better access to the lines.
The other alternative is laying over the engine and removing them a quarter-turn at a time with an open- or box-end wrench. If the swivel socket is flopping around too much, it can be wrapped with a piece of electrical tape. This will make it easier to guide onto the bolts from under the vehicle, and it will still swivel when removing them.
A plate can be made to turn a standard shop floor jack into a transmission jack. I have used this plate to remove scores of transmissions and transfer cases over the years. It may not reach high enough for all vehicles, but gets them close enough so I can wrestle them in the rest of the way. If the transmission was not drained prior to removing it from the vehicle, place it in a holding fixture mounted to the workbench, and drain into a bucket or pan. Leave it in this position for at least 20 minutes.
The torque converter can be removed and placed over a 5-gallon bucket to drain. A new torque converter should be included for all rebuilt transmissions. Slowly add 1 or 2 quarts of fluid to the converter, and lubricate the seal surface with clean ATF or TransGel. Slide the converter into the transmission, while turning it at the same time. Move the transmission lift into place and strap the transmission to the lift if one is available.
Remove the rear mounting bolts and raise the transmission to facilitate removal of the rear frame mount. Some vehicles may also have exhaust systems that will need to be removed prior to removing the transmission.
The extreme heat that most exhaust systems see will usually have most of the fasteners heavily rusted. Plan on soaking most of the bracket, flange, and clamp bolts with penetrating oil before attempting to loosen them.
It is recommended to support the engine prior to removing the transmission bell-housing bolts. Some GM vehicles have very little clearance. Remove the bell-housing bolts. The top bolts can be extremely difficult to access on some models.
Some vehicles, such as late model Blazers and Suburbans, may also have studded bolts with nuts that hold various other items in place behind the bell housing, such as the main wiring harness.
With the transmission securely supported on the jack, and all the transmission-to-engine bolts removed, pull the transmission back far enough so it can be lowered to the ground.
A long pry bar may be needed to help break things loose. Once on the ground, the torque converter can be removed to reduce weight and make the transmission easier to handle. Some fluid will be lost; remove the torque converter quickly and cover the opening to prevent any dirt from getting into the unit. The transmission can now be bolted to your holding fixture and placed on the workbench.
If not drained previously, turn the unit so the tail housing is pointing toward the ground, remove the slip yoke, and drain into a large pan or bucket. Leave the unit in this position for at least 20 minutes prior to taking it apart. Prior to installing the transmission into place, you need to make sure that the torque converter is fully engaged into the transmission stator, input shaft, and oil pump.
With the transmission sitting on the pan, carefully install the torque converter. Spin the torque converter while pushing it back towards the transmission. This will help to align the input shaft and stator splines. The transmission oil pump must also engage with the two notches in the converter hub. The converter may be difficult to get in the transmission when a new bushing is installed in the pump. This is normal, as the clearance between the parts is minimal.
A small strap can be used to secure the transmission to your jack while positioning it under the vehicle. This will keep it from sliding off the jack while moving it into position, and can be left in place until you are ready to move the transmission into final position.
For most installations, the transmission filler tube and dipstick will also need to be in the transmission. Some can be very difficult if not impossible to install once the transmission is bolted to the engine, as there may be little if any room between the transmission bell housing and the vehicle firewall. The rear transmission mount should also be bolted into place, and the bolts torqued to specifications with a drop of blue Loctite on them.
The transmission is now ready to raise into position. Make sure that the transmission is securely fastened to the transmission jack, and tilted back slightly while being raised into position. Line up the boltholes and the dowel-pin holes, and carefully slide the transmission in place.
Once the transmission has been guided into place over the engine dowel pins, install one bolt on each side. Before tightening either bolt, make sure that the transmission is flush with the engine, and that the torque converter will spin freely. If the torque converter will not turn, it may not be correctly engaged in the oil pump.
If the bolts to the engine are tightened at this point, the oil pump will be severely damaged. Install and tighten all the transmission-to-engine bolts. Raise the transmission to facilitate installing the crossmember and rear mount bolts. Turn the engine and install the flywheel-to-converter bolts.
It is best to install all the bolts and leave them about a half-turn loose, then tighten them correctly the next time around. If one bolt is tightened and the others not started, there may be alignment problems and the other bolts may not start. Hook up the cooling lines, shift linkage, and speedometer cable or wiring.
Connect the wiring harness to the transmission. Make sure the rear wheels are off the ground, the parking brake is locked, and the transmission shifter is in Park. The engine can now be started, and the transmission topped off with fluid. Check for leaks while the engine is warming up and continue to add fluid until the transmission is full. If no leaks are found, and the fluid level is full, place the transmission in Drive while holding the brakes.