Beginners Guide To Beading & Beading Techniques
Mar 08, · What's the best way to hold your leather as you bead? What's the easiest way to work with loose beads? How do you load your needle with hanked beads? Do you. Apr 27, · This is a how to video teaching how to hand sew a loom beaded strip onto heavy strap leather. This is most common in things like belts. There have been a n.
Depending on the pendant and beads you use, this finished piece could be worn by both men and women. Beads that nicely accent your pendant. My finished beaded centerpiece in this necklace — from one jump ring end to the other — measures 5.
Leather cord, 2mm wide — 2 pieces. Each piece of cord should be about Beading wire. Cutter for beading wire. Crimping pliers. Finish off one end of your beading wire by making an empty loop in the wire, with 2 crimp beads to hold the loop in place.
Twist open one of your jump rings and string the jump ring through the small exposed tip of your beading wire loop:. TIP: Grab the tail of your cord with flat nose pliers so you can pull it hard and make your knot very tight. Attach one end of this cord to the jump ring on the end of your beading wire, using the same knot as what to eat to increase hemoglobin in body 2 half-hitches :.
Now each jump ring at the ends of your beaded centerpiece should have a leather cord end knotted to it, like this:. Now move to the other unfinished cord end, and attach it to the jump ring that serves as the other end of your clasp. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.
Supplies: A rustic, rugged, or natural pendant — either drilled front-to-back and a jump ring attached through the drill hole, or drilled sideways through the top. String half of your beads onto your beading wire. I nearly always use 2 crimp beads instead of 1, for greater security. Then finish off the second end of your beading wire the same way, with a loop and 2 crimp beads: Now slide one of your coiled wire crimp bead covers onto one end of your finished beading wire: Twist open one of your jump rings and string how to reduce radon in a home jump ring through the small exposed tip of your beading wire loop: Twist the jump ring shut: Now add a coiled crimp bead cover and jump ring to the other end of your beading wire.
The instructions for each step are below this photo: Photo 1: String one end of your leather cord through the jump ring at the end of your beading wire. Photo 2: Bring the tail of your cord around and lay it across the main part of the cord.
Photo 4: Pull the tail of your cord to tighten up your first half hitch. Photo 4: Pull the tail of your cord to straighten and tighten up your second half how to release a podcast on itunes. Then trim off most of the excess cord tail leaving a very small tail : Now pick up your second piece of leather cord and move to the other end of your beading wire.
Use the 2 half-hitches knot to attach the hook clasp to one of your unfinished cord ends: Now move to the other unfinished cord end, and attach it to the jump ring that serves as the other end of your clasp. Again, use the 2 half-hitches knot: When finished, your fastened clasp should look something like this: And your finished necklace should look like this: Shares.
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Branch Out With New Bead Embroidery Techniques
Using a needle for leather or an awl you can purchase at the hardware store, punch holes in the leather working either in a straight line or in a pattern. Cut a length of Silkon® bonded nylon thread and add a heavyweight beading niceloveme.com a knot in the end of the thread. Then pass the needle, working from back to front, through the first hole in the leather. Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. A super short video on types of materials one can bead on. Sorry the video got cut short but all the info you need is there. Follow me @ Spottedcloud on Inst.
If you are new to beads and beading then read on as this guide to beadwork will help you get started by providing some useful beading making techniques and basic beading instructions. All are suited to the beginner but you need to choose projects carefully. The information provided here lists the materials, the tools and some of the techniques required for each area, with further reading suggestions to complement these basic beading techniques.
With so many books on the market, a good browse in your bookshop or library is recommended. This will help you determine the style of teaching that suits you, and what type of projects appeal to you.
Also check the popular beading and jewellery magazines, as these carry bead guides for beginners, bead hints and tips, as well as projects and advice on how to get started. Stringing or threading beads onto nylon thread, cord, ribbon, flexible wire or leather thong to make necklaces, bracelets and earrings.
Stringing can be as simple as threading beads onto a length of ribbon and tying a knot, but the scope for elaborating on basic beading techniques, applying a professional level of finish and using your imagination when selecting components can make stringing a very satisfying area to work in.
The key to successful stringing is to choose the correct thread to match the beads selected. The thread should not be seen as the support act, but given top billing with the beads. If you choose the wrong thread your piece of jewellery may break, develop kinks or look shapeless when worn. Consider how you are going to finish your string so that you have the right Jewellery Findings on hand. Will you use a clasp, cord or ribbon ends, crimp beads, crimp covers, or jump rings?
Will you need a clasp that can cater for more than one string? The clasp is critical to the security of a piece, so consider the weight and value of the beads used when making your choice. The closure should also be compatible with the stringing materials used, so that it can easily take the weight of the components and fit securely on the string ends.
When buying a clasp, check whether it comes with jump rings or if you need to purchase these separately. The usual way to attach a clasp to beading wire and some more robust nylon cords is to use a Crimp Bead. If you are working with a cut length of wire then start your piece with one half of the clasp, as this will stop the beads rolling off. A Crimp Cover is a c-shaped bead that fits over the flattened crimp bead to hide it. Once closed carefully with pliers the cover resembles a regular metal bead.
Sterling silver crimp beads are thought to be superior because the soft nature of the metal allows for a more secure fit and a smoother finish.
They are also less likely to break when under pressure. However, they are more costly and in most circumstances plated crimps will do the job very well. Never open a Jump Ring by pulling the two sides of the opening away from each other like a mouth opening. This will distort the shape. Instead hold each side of the opening with pliers, so hold the left side with pliers in your left hand, and likewise for the right.
Hold one side still and push the other side away from you. To close repeat the position for holding and pull one side back to the centre. The jump ring should be closed as tightly as possible. It is possible to buy closed jump rings which have been soldered shut, and also split rings which look like very tiny key rings.
These are more secure than standard jump rings. Split rings require a special tool to open them to save both your sanity and your fingernails! If you have long tails to your knot, then thread these back through a few beads and secure to the stringing line with an overhand knot as illustrated below. This is a good way of stopping the knot coming undone. For an alternative method, see finishing without a clasp below. Knots can also be used in conjunction with findings to provide a neat finish to softer stringing materials such silk cord and nylon thread.
You can knot directly onto the clasp and tuck the tail ends back through the beads, but it looks more professional to make use of a calotte or end cone. End cones tend to be used with multiple strands as a way of bringing several ends to one point. Calottes are used to hide a single knot and also provide a means of attaching to the clasp. Some calottes have a hole in them to pass the end of the thread through, whilst others simply close about the knot and have a channel to run the thread though.
Tie an overhand or figure of eight knot using the illustration below and add a tiny drop of glue to hold the knot secure in the calotte. You may also want to incorporate a seed bead as extra anchor. Trim the thread end and gently use your chain or flat nose pliers to close the calotte. Then use your chain nose pliers to form the hook into a loop which can be attached directly to your clasp or with a jump ring.
Folding crimps, cord ends, and ribbon ends are all findings that are specifically designed for use with particular stringing materials. Folding crimps come in different widths and can be used with leather or suede thong. Cord and ribbon ends should be self-explanatory.
These findings come in different dimensions and are generally very simple to use. Insert the end of your thread and use your pliers to fold or tighten the finding around the thread, using a drop of glue for added security. It is possible to simply knot your thread ends with the method described above being one option. Another way of finishing a piece and giving the illusion of a continuous loop is to pass each of your two tail ends through the last four or five beads at the other end of the piece, thereby forming a loop.
This will mean that the beads previously at the each end of the string will sit next to each other. Take each tail end and knot it against the main string using an overhand or half-hitch knot. For added security continue the tail end through another few beads and knot again before running the end of the tail through one or two beads and trimming off.
If you want to use this method you will need to ensure you have enough thread at either end of your string to allow for the extra threading and knotting. If creating a piece with beading wire it is also possible to do away with a clasp. You will need some crimp beads and ideally some crimp covers too. Insert a crimp bead between the fourth and fifth bead strung, and the beads fourth and fifth from the end of your string. As with the above instruction feed each end of the wire through the final few beads at the opposite end.
Instead of tying a knot use the crimp bead to secure the loop. Add crimp covers to neaten the finish. Unlike working with flexible beading wire, wirework is a technique that uses firmer single strand Wire that holds its shape. Working with different wire types it is possible to create tiaras, fascinators, beaded flowers, knitted and crocheted pieces, your own wire components, beaded decorations, and chain maille work.
All of these can be completed without the need for specialist tools or a soldering iron, and you can produce work that is one-off, free-form and expressive, or structured pieces using a jig that can be reproduced a jig is a former to bend wire around.
Because no heat is used with this type of work, it is sometimes referred to as cold wirework. Wire is supplied in different Gauges , or thicknesses, which are denoted by a number using the American system or by its diameter in mm.
Wire is available in four different levels of hardness: dead soft, soft wire, half-hard and full-hard, with Memory Wire being the hardest of all the wire types.
All wire will stiffen slightly as you work it work harden but you can stiffen and strengthen the wire further if you hammer it. Obviously this will also change the appearance of it, but this can give a very attractive finish.
If making ear wires, hammer the curved part of the wire the part that sits within your ear lobe to give form and strength. For general beading purposes you will need a few wireworking techniques under your belt but once mastered these will take you a long way. The first is turning a loop and the second is wrapping a loop. A turned loop is a loop of the type that you will see at the end of an Eye Pin.
A straight length of wire deviates to form a circle and at the end of the circle the wire terminates. You might need to turn a loop in order to finish off the other end of an eye pin or head pin so that they can be attached to other components in your piece, such as jump rings, chain, or wire.
Imagine you have an eye pin, have added a few choice beads and wish to form a dangle for a chain bracelet. Grab your round nose pliers and your wire cutters. Cut the wire to within 1 cm of the final bead. Place your pliers on the wire next to the final bead, and using your fingers bend the wire against them to create a right angle bend.
Next take the end of the wire in between the jaws of the pliers and hold it so the wire end is flush with the outside of the jaw. Where you position the wire along the jaw of the pliers will determine how large your loop is. Try a few loops in different positions until you get a feel for where the wire should be placed. Rotate the pliers away from you so that the wire started to wrap around the curve of the jaw.
When you have turned as far as is comfortable in one movement, release your grip of the wire, reposition the pliers and continue turning your wire until you have a loop. Sometimes referred to as a gallery wrap. Once again this is a technique that you can carry out to form a dangle or pendant, but it is slightly stronger than a simple turned loop.
If using a head or eye pin you will need one with a longer length as the wrapping requires at least 3cm of wire after the final bead. You will need round and flat nose pliers as well as wire cutters. If necessary cut the wire to within 3cm of the final bead.
Place your round nose pliers on the wire next to the final bead, and using your fingers bend the wire against them to create a right angle bend. Grip the wire next to the bend just formed, then wrap the tail end of the wire up and around one of the jaws of the round nose pliers to form a loop.
Change to your flat nose pliers use them to grip the loop, then using your fingers tightly wrap the tail end of the wire round the wire beneath the loop. Trim the excess with your cutters. Woven bead loom work can be produced with small beads on a simple wooden or metal loom, either purchased or homemade using something like a picture frame. It is also possible to work with a tube loom to produce tubular beading for bags, bracelets etc.
The basic techniques are easy to learn and from there you can learn to shape your loom work and add decorative finishes to the piece when removed from the loom. When working on a traditional flat loom the warp threads the long threads running the length of the loom vertically support the work and the weft thread running horizontally passes through the beads and over the top of the warp threads. The thread used for the weft can be lighter than that used for the supporting warp, and it will need to be able to pass through the beads several times.